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Zorin OS 6.2

Zorin OS 6.2 Desktop

Anna’s laptop was nearly useless. Choked up and bogged down. Virus could not be found, no malware, and I scrubbed the registry with CCleaner. After 5 hours of troubleshooting­, I threw in the towel. Instead of reloading Windows 7, I’m trying Zorin OS 6.2 – a Linux based on Ubuntu that has the closest “look and feel” to Windows 7. So far, she’s loving it. It can also be easily changed to Mac OS X look, or one of the many Linux desktops. I’m impressed. Her computer is flyin’! Toshiba laptops are supposed to be hard to Linux-ize, but we don’t seem to have any problem whatsoever. Keeping fingers crossed.

Ready To Run

“I am a steadfast believer in the increased quality of life that comes from creating something by hand. While buying ‘stuff’ may give a short term high, much like a candy bar buzz, it quickly wears off leaving you where you started. The satisfaction that comes from creating something, however, is long lasting and therapeutic.” – Lance Mindheim

My good friend Harry Wong is building a relatively simple shelf layout. Encouraging me to do the same, Harry’s turned me onto the Lance Mindheim’s blog. For those not familiar, Lance is a commercial model railroad layout designer and builder, and has written many articles and books on layout design and construction.

This quote from his blog really grabbed my attention. While the context was in regard to layout design and structure selection, it really strikes a chord with me with the proliferation of Ready-To-Run rolling stock we have today, and the lack of kits. I have a saying I use when speaking to Athearn and Intermountain regarding the demise of kits in our hobby:

“You’re letting the Chinese have all the fun!”

It seems that if you want to be a model builder, your best bet is to move to China, and work for one of the manufacturers. “Our industry is currently tied to Chinese production, as southern China has developed the special skill set required to produce model trains.” (Jason Shron, President, Rapido Trains) If you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em.

But I buck the trend. To Intermountain’s credit, they do offer kits. They’re just hard to find. Most hobby shops deal with Walthers as their distributor. Most have reluctantly included Horizon Hobbies to continue to offer Athearn products (which is distributed only by Horizon, thier owner). But Intermountain has become a distributor of sorts as well, selling Tichy, Red Caboose, and others, and is no longer using Walthers as a distributor. They didn’t just cut out the middle man – they replaced him! You have to order direct, and they don’t have an on-line store. You have to order the old-fashioned way – by phone.

But it’s the theraputic element that Lance explains that appeals to me. I guess I could just as well be a model airplane or model car guy, but trains appeal to me more, and always have. It’s just that the opportunities to actually build models is evaporating, and for that, yes, I’m a little bitter. Comparing a R-T-R models to a candy bar makes a lot of sense. High cost, low nutritional value, encourages lazy eating habbits, and malnourishment. Is that really were we want our hobby headed?

Back to my workbench – I obviously need the therapy.

Three Barrels of Steam


All photos courtesy Robert Simpson, hosted here with his permission

James E. Boynton wrote a book by the same title about 3-cylinder steam locomotives. Although many were presented, he concentrated on the Southern Pacific’s 50 4-10-2s in three classes. The Southern Pacific was the first railroad to order locomotives with this wheel arrangement, and so got the honor of naming it. Not to be out-done by the Santa Fe, which had named the 2-10-2 wheel arrangement after themselves, the Southern Pacific named the 4-10-2 the Southern Pacific wheel arrangement. The Southern Pacific owned 50 of these locomotives in 3 classes (SP-1/-2/-3). The locomotive was such a successful design, there was little to differentiate between the three classes. Modelers should be more interested in how appliances such as the bell were fitted, the addition of a second sand dome, tender, type of exhaust stack, and other details.

One 4-10-2 was preserved: Southern Pacific 5021.

On 10. February 2013, Robert Simpson visited the L.A. County Fair and took some photos of SP-2 5021. Three Railway & Locomotive Historical Society members (he didn’t get names) were at the time working on UP 4014. He asked them about possible cracks in the 5021′s cylinder casting. They said that yes, the loco was dropped in ’76 and that damage had occured to the smokebox, but there was no apparent damage to the cylinder casing or frame which would rule out future operation. They said that there are cracks in the cylinder casting(s) that had been repaired by welding before the ’76 incident.

Thanks, Robert, for the opportunity to host your images. I’m sure many will appreciate them!

Cooling System Flush

Radiator Cleaners

Now something a little different from my usual Model Railroading posts:

I had a pinhole leak develop in my car’s radiator. Now, the original radiator lasted from when the car was built in late 1999 to mid 2005, and this replacement radiator lasted from mid 2005 to mid 2012, so the aftermarket radiator was better than the Mopar radiator, but nothing lasts forever. Unfortunately, while I was arranging for the replacement radiator, I had to add a lot of water to the system, diluting my coolant, and causing rust.

With an aluminum engine block, aluminum heads, and aluminum radiator, there isn’t much of a source of Iron or Steel to rust. I know the Bosch water pump I changed last spring had a cast iron impeller rather than the usual plastic one. Swirling around in the coolant, now highly diluted and lacking any corrosion protection, I figure that’s what’s caused the fine layer of rust everywhere.

No problem, I thought. I’ll just do a coolant flush and get rid of the rust.

Well, the devil is in the details. Nutritionists advise us to read the label and look at the ingredients. As a mechanic, I advise the same, but in this case, since the labels don’t have the ingredients, we have to obtain the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) to see what we’re buying. I didn’t, and went ahead and bought some radiator flush “over the counter” from some reputable sources. I was shocked when each, in turn, didn’t work as planned, and after I looked at the MSDS, I learned why.

First up was Prestone ® Super Flush, purchased at the local Walmart. In fact, it was the only cooling system flush Walmart sold, but for less than $5, what did I have to lose?  The instructions say to use this product for 10 minutes after getting the cooling system up to normal operating temperature. I did, and when all was said and done, I still had a nice fine layer of rust in my hoses, in  the inlet into the water pump, and in my pressurized coolant tank. When I looked at the MSDS, I found that it contains Sodium Citrate (5-15%) and water. Sodium Citrate is a sodium salt of citric acid. While citric acid is one of those chemicals people have recommended to clean cooling systems (including Mercedes Benz), Sodium Citrate is not Citric Acid. It’s like comparing table salt (sodium chloride, or NaCl) to Muriatic Acid (Hydrochloric Acid, or HCl). Sodium Citrate is a food additive and alkalyzing agent. It will neutralize acids but won’t do anything for oil, gunk or scale, and as I found, won’t remove much of the rust, either. So  the best this will do is to neutralize residual acids left in the coolant that remains behind (in the heater core and nooks and crannies of the block) after draining spent coolant. None of these additives clean or descale the cooling system. There’s nothing to break down, disolve, or suspend any of the rust, minerals (scale), or oils (i.e. “sludge”) that might be in the cooling system.

Next up, I went to a local auto parts store, and bought the only product they carried, Peak Performance Super Cleaner and Flush. This product is to be put in the cooling system and left there for 3-6 hours of operation. In other words, you can leave it in there a couple of days.  This also didn’t do anything. Looking at the MSDS of it, I now understand why. It contains:

  • Water 63 – 64%
  • Ethylene Glycol 34 – 36%
  • Diethylene Glycol 0 – 2%
  • Denatonium Benzoate 30-50 ppm

Water just makes you feel good for buying a 12oz. bottle instead of a 6 oz bottle. Ethylene Glycol you might recognize as the active ingredient in anti-freeze. Diethylene Glycol is “present as an inadvertent byproduct of ethylene glycol production.” (Wikipedia) Denatonium Benzoate is a chemical used to bitter the Ethylete Glycol so it doesn’t taste sweet. It’s also used to denature alcohol. This is even worse than the Prestone product. All it is is a very dilute antifreeze. Probably just enough to lubricate the water pump for the 3-6 hours you’re going to leave this in your engine. The only cleaning this product does is to your wallet.

After doing some digging, it looks like Permatex Heavy Duty Aluminum Radiator Flush is a serious flushing agent. The ingredients are:

  • Citric Acid 10-30% – an effective remover of rust and corrosion and scale – see above recommendation, including by M-B.
  • TetraSodium EDTA 5-15% – Chelating agent – dissolves scale and holds it in solution.
  • N-METHYL-2-PYRROLIDONE <5% – Solvent/degreaser, often used as a paint remover, it’s especially effective at dissolving polymers/gums/gunk.
  • 2-Butoxyethanol <5% – A solvent/degreaser – will remove grease & oil
  • POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE <5% – Raises pH and also dissolves oxides
  • Dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid <5% – A surfactant (wetting agent) – a primary ingredient in detergents

Nobody around here carried it. I had to order it through Midway Auto Supply via Amazon. Glad I did. This is the only product that worked.

I rinsed the system with distilled water, then did a fill with the recommended Zerex G-05 coolant. This is the same formulation as the Mopar 5 year/100,ooo mile Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) coolant, and is also sold by Ford as their Premium Gold Engine Coolant. The Mopar coolant is about $5-$10 more expensive per gallon than the Zerex or Ford brands, and since I need more than one gallon to fill the system (mixing with distilled water), the savings is rather substantial.

Thanks for reading!

PFE R-40-23 Part 0: Choosing a Representative Fleet

Pacific Fruit Express class R-40-23 steel refrigerator cars were ordered in 1946; deliveries began in January, 1947, and until that October. See Anthony W. ThompsonRobert J. Church, and Bruce H. Jones, Pacific Fruit Express, 2nd edition, page 173. The cars were numbered 46703 to 48702 (2,000 cars) and 5001 to 8000 (3,000 cars). Production was as follows:

  • 46703 – 47202 (500 cars) were built by American Car and Foundry Company (ACF) between July and November 1947
  • 47203 – 47702 (500 cars) were built by General American Transportation Company (GATC) between July and November 1947
  • 47703 – 48202 (500 cars) were built by Pullman-Standard Car Manufacturing Company (P-S) between April and June 1947
  • 48203 – 48702 (500 cars) were built by Pacific Car and Foundry Company (PC&F) between June and October 1947
  • 5001 – 6000 (1000 cars) were built by The Mount Vernon Car Manufacturing Company
  • 6001 – 6500 (500 cars) were built by American Car and Foundry Company (ACF)
  • 6501 – 7000 (500 cars) were built by General American Transportation Company (GATC)
  • 7001 – 7500 (500 cars) were built by Pullman-Standard Car Manufacturing Company (P-S)
  • 7501 – 8000 (500 cars) were built by Pacific Car and Foundry Company (PC&F)

Perhaps a kind reader who has production information on the 3,000 cars in the 5001 to 8000 series will leave a comment.

Despite 5 different builders, the cars are built from the same PFE drawings. Production details varied only with the equipment installed. Dick Harley summarized PFE drawing 283-C-8962, “Allocation of Specialties” on the Yahoo! Steam Era Freight Car discussion group (message 26019, dated 25. November 2003)  as follows:

Running Boards & Brake Steps:

  • 4000 - Morton, car numbers: 6001-8000, 46703-48702
  • 1000 - U.S.Gypsum, car numbers: 5001-6000

Hand Brakes -

  • 1250 - Ajax, car numbers: 5001-5250, 7501-8000, 48203-48702
  • 1250 - Equipco, car numbers: 6001-6500, 6751-7000, 46703-47202
  • 1250 - Universal, car numbers: 5751-6000, 7001-7500, 47703-48202
  • 750 - Miner, car numbers: 5251-5750, 47203-47452
  • 500 - Superior, car numbers: 6501-6750, 47453-47702

Air Brakes -

  • 3500 – New York, car numbers: 5500-5999, 6001-7500, 46703-48202
  • 1500 - Westinghouse, car numbers: 5001-5499, 6000, 7501-8000, 48203-48702

Door Fasteners -

  • 2500 – Miner, car numbers: 5001-7000, 46703-47202
  • 2500 – Universal, car numbers: 7001-8000, 47203-48702

As a model railroader, I’m interested in how these cars varied cosmetically. The variation in details required to model the fleet seem staggering, although, on the other hand, it may be possible to find a car number suitable for any assembly of parts. But if you want to model what’s common, rather than what’s unusual, where do we begin?

First off, we can look at what these differences really mean. Morton running boards had a circular pattern, while U.S. Gypsum running boards had a diamond pattern. These are very obvious differences. The hand brakes are also a distinctive feature of the cars, with the brake wheel being much more prominent than the gearbox it attaches to. It’s also quite obvious. These details help to define specific cars in the class.

On the other hand, there is no cosmetic difference between Westinghouse and New York (AB) Brake equipment, per message 108125, dated 23. March 2012 by Dennis Storzek (of Accurail) on the Yahoo! Steam Era Freight Car discussion group.  So we can ignore that difference.

Similarly, on the matter of the difference between Miner and Universal door fasteners, in message 26030 (on the Yahoo! Steam Era Freight Car discussion group), dated 25. November 2003, Richard H. Hendrickson writes:

I think I can (tell the difference between Miner and Universal door fasteners) … though the difference is certainly very subtle. After studying photos of cars with both types, the only detail that appears different to me is that on the Miner latches there was a small catch at the left end of the lower fitting that the latch bar locked into which could be turned up to a vertical position to hold the left door in place when the right hand door was opened.

So, for this analysis, we’re going to concentrate on those most obvious differences:

  • First (46703 – 48702) or second (5001 – 8000) number series
  • Morton or U.S. Gypsum running boards and brake steps
  • Handbrakes

Well, for lack of a better starting point, let’s start with Tony Thompson’s goal of modeling 1 in 1000. Out of 5000 R-40-23s, that would mean modeling 5 cars. One could pick 5 numbers at random, and then model those cars, we could choose one from each of the 5 builders, or we could do some more digging to find representative cars within the class based on the most common features or specialties.

With 2,000 cars in the 46703 to 48702 series, and 3,000 cars in the 5001-8000 series, it would be a safe assumption that 2 of our representative reefers would be in the first series (46703 – 48702) and 3 of our cars would be in the second number series (5001 – 8000).

Now we have to look at the representative details for each series. I constructed a spreadsheet to look at the details statistically, and figure out what was more or less common. For example, the 5001 – 8000 series has 1000 cars with U.S. Gypsum running boards (5001-6000), and 2000 cars with Morton running boards (6001 – 8000). Well, the math stays easy. One of our cars will be in the 5001 – 6000 series with U.S. Gypsum running boards, and two will be in the 6001 – 8000 series with Morton running boards.

Of the 6001 – 8000 series of cars equipped with Morton running boards, 500 (25%) had Ajax hand brakes, 750 (38%) had Equipco hand brakes, no cars had Miner hand brakes, 250 (12%)  had Superior hand brakes, and  500 (25%)  had Universal brake wheels. Here we have to look more towards statistics.  That is, a random first series car with Morton running boards is more likely to have an Equipco brake wheel, and slightly less likely to have either an Ajax or a Universal brake wheel. So, I’d build one R-40-23 with Morton running boards and an Equipco brake wheel, and another with Morton running boards and an Ajax or Universal brake wheel (flip a coin).

Rather than bore you with the details of all the statistics, here’s what I came up with for a representative fleet:

1st and 2nd car: Morton running boards (both).  Pick 2 out of the following three options:

  • Ajax brake wheel: numbers 48203-48702
  • Equipco brake wheel: numbers 46703-47202
  • Universal brake wheel: numbers 47703-48202

3rd car: Morton running board, Equipco hand brake, numbers 6001-6500 or 6751-7000 .

4th car: Morton running board, Ajax brake wheel, numbers 7501-8000, or Universal brake wheel, numbers 7001-7500.

5th car: U.S. Gypsum running board, Miner hand brake, numbers 5251-5750.

There are other ways, of course. As I mentioned, you could pick the number at random. Another possibility is to find a trainsheet from a train that ran in the district you’re modeling in the era you’re modeling, and pick one of the cars in that train. In short, I’m not saying (nor am I even pretending) to say this is the way to choose what to model, but it’s an approach I’m using to model my PFE R-40-23 fleet.

The car in our lead photo is repainted. Originally, R-40-23s were painted with a color UP herald:

Don’t confuse this logo with the 1969 logo, which uses a more modern lettering style (I’ve made this mistake):

The R-40-23 cars were also originally painted with black hardware and tack boards. Cars (re)painted after 1950 had the black and white logo, shown in the lead photograph. PFE adopted a black and transparent version of UP’s revised 1950 logo when it was made official:

Besides the color UP herald, the 2C (short for two heralds-per-side, with UP in color), has the SP logo towards the center of the car, so both sides look the same (p.176 in the PFE book, 2nd edition). The 1950 and later paint schemes have the SP logo toward the B (brake wheel) end of the car, as the car in my lead photo has.

Thanks for reading.

Pacific Fruit Express R-40-26 Part IV

In this installment, I’ll discuss modifications to the sides of the Accurail 8500 Series 40′ Steel Plug Door Refrigerator Car to model a PFE R-40-26. The next installment will deal with the ends and roof, followed by the underframe, and finally painting, decaling, and weathering.

Like many modelers, destructive work is done before constructive work. That way, I’m not wasting time or money spent on detail parts on things that will be thrown away and replaced should something go horribly wrong. As I left off on Part I, I had already cut the side sill.

First order of business was to strip the paint. I like my finish to be as thin as possible to reveal the most detail possible, so adding the right shade of (Daylight) Orange and Box Car Red over the Accurail paint and lettering was definitely out. Usually, 90% Isopropyl Alcohol does a good job of removing factory applied paint, but it only softened the paint Accurail used. My next attempt was to use good, old fashioned oven cleaner. This did a fairly good job, but left some paint in the corners. I then took the parts to my trusty abrasive blasting cabinet, and finished the job of removing the paint.

I do say, though, that this would have all been completely unnecessary had I started with an undecorated kit, and I recommend anyone else attempting this project to order the #8500 undecorated reefer kit, instead. I will build another R-40-26, and plan to do everything the same save starting with a factory painted model. It’s just not worth the added work.

I removed the molded on grab irons, including the ladder rungs. Removing just the ladder rungs is a handy little matter of expediency, as you don’t have to worry about all the body work patching the sides from the inevitable gouge, or replacing the rivets on the corner. I had intended to use Tichy Train Group #3062 ladder rungs in  the original molded on ladder stiles (although the word stringer is more common in  the US to describe the vertical structural member of a ladder, railroaders use the British stiles so there’s no ambiguity with the stringers used as structural members  on a car’s underframe). However, the stiles are a bit too narrow on the car. Instead, I’ll modeled the rungs with Plastruct 0.010″ styrene rod. I can get a good bond with liquid cement, and when dry, trim to length with a razor blade.

I made the mistake of drilling (by hand) for Kadee grab irons on the left hand side of the car. These aren’t the right style of grab irons, so I filled the holes with Plastruct 0.020″ styrene rod. I then put the sides back in my milling machine, and used my DRO to accurately drill the 4 holes for the 2 grab irons. Two holes go centered in the rivet strip on the edge of the car, and two more go 24 scale inches to the right on each side. I’ll add a few Archer rivets to simulate the mounting bolts.

2012-06-11_D300_4153-e

Initially, I wasn’t going to do anything about the tack board being in the wrong location. PFE had earlier cars with the tackboard in the same location, and I was hesitant to do anything about it. I decided to take a chance and mill it off. I put the side in my trusty 2″ machinist vice with some parallels under to level the side, and bring it up in the jaws of the vice. I put a 1/8″ end mill into my mini-mill, and carefully lowered the mill to the car side. I took a light skim cut of the tackboard, and then measured the remaining thickness of the tackboard with the depth guage portion of my calipers. I then lowered the head to within 0.001″ of the side, turned the mill on, and milled off the tack board. There was still a thin remnant, but this easily polished off with wet sanding. Success! Well one side, at least.

On the other side, somehow I ended up with a few gouges that revealed themselves after priming the side. I filled these gouges  brush painting with Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer 500, and followed up with wet sanding with 600 grit and then 1500 grit sandpaper.

2012-06-24_D300_4186-e

I then located and drilled the hole to mount the PRECO circulating fan bearing block. The hole was accurately located from the R-40-26 photo on Tony Thompson’s web site, by counting rivets. I center drilled and then drilled out the mounting hole with a #30 bit. Although drill bits rarely “walk” on styrene, I’ve suffered from the results enough to have developed a ritual of center punching every hole (often with a sewing needle in plastic), and center drilling before drilling the final hole (or where utmost precision is required, drilling and then reaming to final size). All those steps that machinist learn and use are for a reason, and model requires a lot more accuracy than rebuilding a Chevy small block.

I carefully apply the PRECO ventilator fan bearing block, the defect card holder, the tackboard, and other details. A few rivets have to be shaved off so  the tackboard will fit flush. Again, I’m using the rivets as a guide. It’s really starting to look like a PFE car now, with the black hardware against a light orange plastic side. As I mentioned in Part III, the photo of PFE 9036 shows that the control box has been omitted, so this part was not used on this model (my next R-40-26 will be an earlier version from this class, and will include the control box).

I was a little concerned about applying the Archer rivets to the side. For one thing, I didn’t know how the decal film (a familiar Microscale product) would adhere to bare plastic, as I’d always applied decals to glossy paint. However, the videos on Archer Transfer’s web site gave me the confidence to go forward with this. After I’d written about (and ordered) the rivets, Tony Thompson wrote this in his blog:

The answer is Archer rivets. These are three-dimensional resin objects deposited on decal film. You apply them like any decal (taking care not to knock them off the surface). The set that has the closest wider-spacing rivet rows is Archer HO Surface Details 25 (there is also a set 30, which is for Alternate Center Rivets as on box cars). You can purchase them on-line at: www.archertransfers.com.

I had ordered set 30, and I ended up using them. What’s interesting is that Tony had researched these for Archer (and is given credit for them). Well, these appear to be perfect for  that second row that needs to be added. I’m not sure why Tony thought set 25 might be more appropriate. I’m very happy with these rivets.

2012-06-21_D300_4163-e

As I mentioned above, I also added a rivet above and below each of the grab irons on the left hand side of the carbody, and one above and one below the vertical grab iron next to the door. These represent the bolts that fasten these items to the car.

Door stops were added using Evergreen #261 channel cut to size. I sliced some very thin peices (3″ long) based on the measurement of the stops molded in to the left of the door. I then carefully glued these to the side using the rivet pattern as a guide. Once in place, and with the glue completely dry, I shaved the taper in the flanges of the C section.

I attached  the ladder rungs (the 0.010″ styrene rod) with liquid cement, primed the sides with Gunze-Sangyo Mr. Surfacer 1000 (I just love the way the Japanese name their products) thinned with MEK, and set the sides aside. They are ready for paint. Grab irons will wait until paint and lettering (decal) application. Next will be the ends and roof.

Pacific Fruit Express R-40-26 Part III

Part III was supposed to have more on the construction of my PFE R-40-26, but since part II, Tony Thompson has written an unprecedented three consecutive blog entries about this car. You can find them here:

Tony’s raised a few questions I thought I’d answer, the best I can, at least. Tony has researched the PFE fleet far more than anyone else I’ve talked to. His book, Pacific Fruit Express, co-authored with Robert J. Church and Bruce H. Jones, remains the definative work on the Pacific Fruit Express and it’s fleet of Refridgerator cars. He’s the dean of PFE (and SP freight car) modeling. I’m only a humble student.

Tony does a splendid job giving the background of the paint scheme as it transitioned from the color Union Pacific shield version to the black and white herald on this car. He points out that the one side of the Accurail car is painted correctly, but  that he hasn’t seen the other side to comment if Accurail had correctly flipped the logos. On this car, the SP logo should be on the B-end (or Brakewheel end) of the car, and the UP logo should be on the A end of the car.

Sides from Accurail #8504 Plug Door Reefer

As I showed in Part I, the logos are properly reversed. If you can live with the much darker Reefer Orange paint, you’re set!

Tony then notes that the car lacks the one-inch black stripe above and below the reporting marks.

The use of these stripes would be discontinued by PFE in the spring of 1952, about the time construction of R-40-26 cars was completed.

Actually, in the PFE book, it’s mentioned that the AAR discontinued the requirement for the stripes above and below the reporting marks in March 1952. In the first installment, Tony presented this photograph of PFE 8027, built 8-51:

pfe_8027

And in a much earlier post about the PFE fleet of 1953 in general, Tony had presented this photo of PFE 9036, built 3-52:

pfe_9036

I’m going to make an educated guess and say these photos are of fairly new cars, and are not repaints.  Why? The weight data shows NEW, and not a reweigh, which would have been required within 30 months on a new car built in the 1949-1962 era (see Reweigh Dates on Freight Cars by Tony Thompson, a corrected version of the article which appeard in the April 2011 issue of Railroad Model Craftsman (RMC), pages 72 and 73. Steel cars in this era had a planned repaint cycle of roughly 10 years, so it would be very rare for a car to be repainted before it’s first reweigh date. But, as they say, accidents happen, and so do repaints!

These photos show that the stripe was in fact included on some cars, but by 3-52, when PFE 9036 was painted, the stripe was already omitted. PFE was very quick to eliminate those stripes (and the cost to paint them)! The Accurail car is lettered with a higher number, and with a later build date, so again, if you can get past the too dark Reefer Orange paint, the car’s lettering is very accurate. I would feel safe ommitting the stripe on any R-40-26 numbered 9036 and higher (that is, 9036 – 10000). That’s not just a few cars at the end of production – that’s roughly 1/3rd the fleet, and that’s assuming the “worst case,” that 9036 was the first to have the stripes ommitted!

There are some other changes that I find interesting, though. 8027 has a fan control box below the side sill. PFE 9036 does not. PFE 9036 has a defect card holder near the (fake!) PRECO ventilator pillow block (Tony calls this a “Fan Plate,” but the Mechanical Engineer side of my brain fights this). Since I only had the first photo, of PFE 9036, to work from, I’m going to model my first R-40-26 as one of  the later cars. I will probably do an earlier car later, and will model from the photo of PFE 8027, and include the black stripes and fan cotrol box.

The last question Tony raises concerns the roof walk . The kit’s roof walk is a very nice cast Apex brand, with the slotted pattern. Not quite as nicely detailed as, say, the Tichy running boards, but nice. Tony says that most R-40-26s had Morton brand, with  the round hole pattern. Plano to the rescue! Although marketed as being for the Intermountain R-40-23, I think the Plano roofwalks are suitable for all the R-40-x 40′ PFE Reefers. They not only have the Apex and Morton pattern available, but the diamond shaped Gypsum brand.

Back to modeling in Part IV – soon!

Pacific Fruit Express R-40-26 Part II

I was asked how easy was it to cut the sill to make the bottom sill notched like the R-40-26, so I thought I’d answer that question in this post.

E-A-S-Y!

Let’s take a look at the back of one of the sides:

2012-06-13_d300_4156-e

I’ve already cut away the portion that’s not needed, but you can see other portions that are “ready to cut.” These areas are molded about half way through, so there’s less material here. I used a rasor blade to chop the diagonals, then nipped in between with a Xuron High Precision Shear, sometimes called a sprue nipper by modelers. After the rough cuts were done, I dressed the area with sanding boards to get a nice smooth, flat surface. I had to freelance the area under the bottom door guide.

You can also see in this back view the back side of the PRECO ventilator fan bearing block (a Details West part – more on this part and the rest of the kit in part III IV – change of plans!), and some holes I plugged with 0.020″ styrene rod. I mistakenly drilled the sides to accept Kadee Grab Irons, but upon closer examination, decided these were the wrong ones to use, so I had to plug the holes I’d drilled, and redrill for the proper grab iron.

Part III soon, I promise!

 

 

Pacific Fruit Express R-40-26 Part I

On a lark, I bought an Accurail #8504 Plug Door refrigerator car (reefer). It was an impulse buy – on sale for $12 at M. B. Klein. I don’t remember reading about this car, especially in discussions of PFE Reefer models. When the model came, I found a kit that was very darkly painted, but had nice crisp lettering. And in that lettering, it was noted that the car was an R-40-26. To the uninitiated, this follows the Harriman classification system for rolling stock. That is, R for refrigerator car, 40 for a nominal capacity of 40 tons, and 26 being the 26th design in this type of car on the Pacific Fruit Express (a company owned jointly by Southern Pacific and Union Pacific). Introduced in 1951, this is a landmark car on the PFE, in that it was the first design to use the sliding plug door instead of the flush hinged leaf design that was common up to this point. It is a very modern reefer for the steam-diesel transition era modeler.

After a bit of research, I found a post by Dennis Storzek, owner of Accurail, on the Steam Era Freight Car List:

The plug door car is specifically a WFEX car (don’t have the numbers handy) but FGEX and BREX both had similar cars. spotting features include diagonal panel roof, improved Dreadnaught ends with the one ‘squished’ rib, and plain lapped side sheets with single rivet rows.

The June 2012 issue of Model Railroader (page 72) has a favorable review by Steven Otte of this car in the Burlington Refrigerator Express (BREX) scheme. If you’re modeling the Fruit Grower’s Express, this model is very good. I think Dennis did a great job bringing this car to market.

But how does this car compare to the real R-40-26? Well, not that bad, really! The biggest differences are on the sides. Lets take a look at a nice broadside photo from Tony Thompson’s blog. and compare it to the model:

Sides from Accurail #8504 Plug Door Reefer

The thing that struck me the most was the straight side sill of the model, versus the notched side sill of the R-40-26, and I couldn’t help but get started on one side before I had sense enough to photograph the unmolested side. What’s more, the back of the side has guides for cutting the side sill. It’s not perfect, but between the guides and the photo on Tony Thompson’s web site, I was able to quickly correct the most glaring discrepancy. There are a few other things:

  1. The model lacks the bearing blocks for the PRECO circulating fans (the round detail on the bottom left hand side of the car). This can be corrected with the addition of a Details Associate’s #215 Refrigerator Car Details w/PRECO fan.
  2. Placement of the tack board. (The Details West kit mentioned above includes tack boards, defect card holder, and other side details.
  3. The model is equiped with polling pockets, while PFE had abondoned this feature by the time the R-40-26 was built.
  4. The model has a single row of rivets for the side panel seams, where the R-40-26 has two rows, with the second row alternating. I have ordered (but not yet received) Archer Alternative Center Rivets for Freight Cars (P/N AR88030). I hope these will provide the correct rivet pattern. Otherwise, I’ve got a lot of individual rivets to apply.
  5. The lower door track is much too heavy. Since I’m not fond of replacing the door hardware (with what?), I’m going to live with this discrepancy.
  6. The model is missing the door stops to prevent the door from sliding (open) beyond the end of the track. I have yet to decide if and how I’m going to model this.

Then there’s the usual detail and modification work: replacement of the plastic stirrup steps with A-Line formed metal parts, elimination of the S-scale coupler pocket (no thanks to NMRA recommended practice RP-22), Plano Models etched brass roofwalks, and other underframe details.

 

X31F Part 1: Early Progress

In part 0, I discuss the inspiration and background for this model. Sunshine Models had produced a resin kit of the Pennsylvania X31F, but the owner has retired, and the kits are no longer in production. Fortunately, Bowser produces a model in styrene – a medium more modelers are comfortable working with.

Breaking news: David Sieber writes to tell me “One happy bit of info:  Sunshine Models is still active and Martin Lofton has not retired from the resin kit business (though last year, his wife Tricia shared that he had been considering it due to health problems).  However, all PRR X31-series kits were retired from his line due to sales plummeting after Bowser came out with their X31s.  This has happened with several of his resin offerings after various manufacturers have brought out a plastic version.  You can still get other unique cars like Pennsy X37 and X41 boxcars, B&O M-55C and H boxcars, and many others from Sunshine; see Jim Hayes’ unofficial Sunshine website at http://www.sunshinekits.com/ - Sunshine themselves are not online.  If you order, be prepared to wait at least 6 months for your order to be filled, since except for newly issued cars produced for the few shows that Sunshine attends, everything is cast to order and they are just that backlogged with orders.”

Perhaps the biggest problem with this model is the underframe. The model has four stringers instead of two, and the center sill is greatly simplified.

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The X31Fs were rebuilt with four stringers instead of two starting in 1954. The problem is these stringers went the entire length of the car, eliminating the diagonal braces outside of the bolster. So, either the diagonal brace has to go, and the four stringers extended to the ends of the car, or the four stringers have to go, and replaced by two. Since I wanted the model to represent a car in 1953, this eliminated the option of building the car with four stringers.

So I carefully milled the underframe to eliminate the four stringers, and the mounting holes for the brake gear that Bowser had included. I also milled away the coupler pockets to make way for the scale sized draft gear from Accurail. I carefully chiseled and sanded away the parts I couldn’t mill, and then rescribed the wood plank flooring. I also puttied the brake mounting holes.

Construction began moving from the floor up (down, but inverted). The first thing I did was add the stringers. The prototype stringer is a Z-angle with the open face toward the center sill. This goes under all the frame crossbearers, which was impractical on the one-piece floor, so I had to do it in sections between the crossbearers. The Z-angle was simulated by two pieces of Evergreen styrene – a 0.030″ square piece, with a 0.010″ x 0.030″ strip for the flange portion that mounts to the floor. A pair of calipers came in handy to measure the distance between each crossbearer, and cut the styrene to length.

When this was done, attention was turned to the Brake Pipe. So far, this has been only added between the bolsters, but will eventually extend to the end of the car to mate up to the air hoses. This will be T-ed off to the triple valve and other brake parts at a later date. Although I’ve done this in the past with brass wire, I was encouraged to try 0.020″ Plastruct Styrene Rod, and I really like how this works.

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Attention was then turned to the center sill. The model has just a vertical rib with rivets on the end, while the prototype has two I-beams, spaced 12″ between the top flange. I filed off the rivets, and cut 0.020″ x 0.060″ styrene strips to fit between the bolsters and each of the larger crossbearers. Those crossbearers, as near as I can tell, have straps that fit over the center sill, so rather than sand them flush with the top of what becomes the I-beam web of the center sill, I just put the top flange between them.

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I have also been working on the body. There was a large casting blob on the roof. Although it would be mostly hidden by the roofwalk, I decided that since the model will encourage close scrutiny, I would do my best to remove it. The bodywork was completed with a coat of Gunze-Sangyo Mr. Surfacer 1000 (don’t you just love Japanese product names?) thinned with MEK.

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In part 2, I’ll continue to work on the brake rigging of the underframe, and describe some of the work I’m doing to the body.